EXCLUSIVEMelania Trump's stylist 引き裂くs 自由主義の snob designers 辞退するing to dress her for 就任（式）／開始... and once even 閉めだした the first lady from a 確かな Madison Avenue boutique

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With the 就任（式）／開始 of Donald Trump just days away, all 注目する，もくろむs are on a 潜在的に raucous new 一時期／支部 in the White House ? and what the new 行政 might mean for the 部隊d 明言する／公表するs and the world.

いっそう少なく consequential, perhaps, but no いっそう少なく 投資するd in what Trump 2.0 will mean, is the coterie of 国内の and international dress designers who know that, irrespective of whether they like or loathe Melania, she will be an 影響力のある 軍隊 in fashion for the next four years.

就任（式）／開始 Day might tell us a good 取引，協定 about what the 未来 持つ／拘留するs.

An occasion that 需要・要求するs a bespoke, one-of-a-肉親，親類d ensemble could surely 証明する a challenge for a woman who, if my sources can be believed, is like most of us, still buying off the rack.

Although Melania is a former 産業 insider ? she once graced the cover of US Vogue 列d in a $100,000 Christian Dior haute couture gown ? she has, 比較して speaking, been shunned since her rise to political 力／強力にする, at least by the fashion world.

Anna Wintour, 長年の editor-in-長，指導者, famously 否定するd her a repeat 外見 in Vogue, にもかかわらず having （許可，名誉などを）与えるd the h onor of a cover portrait to every other first lady ? and even to 副大統領?Kamala Harris in the lead-up to November's 選挙.

Is Wintour's 不賛成 so decisively 影響力のある? Certainly, few designers, all of whom wish to remain on good 条件 with the most powerful 発言する／表明する in the fashion world, will 収容する／認める to working with Melania.

When Stefano Gabbana broke 階級s and took to Instagram to thank the first lady for wearing one of the brand's 署名 黒人／ボイコット tuxedo jackets for her 公式の／役人 White House portrait in 2017, branding her proudly as #DGWoman, the 裏書，是認 誘発するd an 即座の social マスコミ （激しい）反発. There were calls to ボイコット（する） the brand.

(Instead of backtracking, the brand 解放（する）d a $275 white T-shirt with 'ボイコット（する）', emblazoned on the 前線, later 確認するing the item was in direct 言及／関連 to the 批評.)

It is the 態度 of Dior that might seem more telling, however.

Melania is 明確に a fan and has ますます turned to its tailored-but-feminine chic in 最近の months, making 著名な 外見s in a striking red 'New Look' 控訴 at 共和国の／共和党の 国家の 条約 in July and in a 修正するd grey 見解／翻訳／版 for her husband's 選挙 night victory.

On each occasion, she 遂行する／発効させるd the look with her usual precision. Yet Dior has been 気が進まない to 収容する／認める to any form of 共同.

Like other fashion houses, the label is usually quick to associate itself with celebrity 裏書，是認s.

When it comes to Melania, one of the most watched women in the world, however, Dior has remained silent ? an 指示，表示する物 that she (or more likely her stylist Herve Pierre) 簡単に wandered into the Dior 蓄える／店 on New York's 5th Avenue and bought the pieces at the 反対する like any other 顧客.

There has been a 近づく 産業-wide 拒絶 to partner with the former and 未来 first lady in 最近の years. In my 見解（をとる）, however, this has emboldened her.

Not reliant on the 最新の fashion whim, Melania has looked to her own 資源s, 特に in 最近の months. And, in the 過程, she has shown us a wardrobe that is both chic and timeless.

For her 外見 at Jimm y Carter's funeral on January 9, she delved 深い into the 古記録s and selected pieces 購入（する）d from a 2019 Valentino collection.

Her glamorous turn at the New York 在庫／株 交流 a month earlier in a nearly two-year-old Ralph Lauren Collection pantsuit was 類似して out of date but sartorially flawless.

It's an approach which separates her from most other political (and 王室の) consorts.

Melania has had little choice. In the wake of Trump's 2016 victory a slew of designers ? Marc Jacobs, Jason Wu, Zac Posen and Tom Ford to 指名する a few ? were quick to 宣言する they would never dress the 後継の first lady.

By his own admission, her stylist, Herve Pierre, was once turned away at the 前線 door of an American designer's Madison Avenue boutique. He hasn't 指名するd the designer in question, preferring not to give him (or her) 解放する／自由な publicity.

'I understand that you can 非難する Mrs Trump,' he told the 影響力のある 産業 magazine Women's Wear Daily (WWD), 'but to say to someone who is coming to shop ? 十分な-price ? 'You are not welcome here.' That is something that I would have never 推定する／予想するd.'

Ninety-five パーセント of what Pierre 報道によれば buys is off the rack, a 過激な 出発 from the approach taken by most first ladies who preferred designer showrooms or custom designs.

'I don't really do that but for the good 推論する／理由 that the fashion 産業 is not very welcoming,' Pierre continued.

'That's no secret. Some are very open-minded and would be able to do something special. But a lot of people are not.'

All this 提起する／ポーズをとるs a problem for a woman who in a few days' time will be 推定する／予想するd to wear two unique and 推定では American outfits ? a daytime ensemble for her husband's 断言するing in and another to parade on 行う／開催する／段階 at one of the many glamorous Washington DC balls held in the new 大統領，／社長's 栄誉（を受ける） that same evening.

In 2017, Ralph Lauren （機の）カム to Melania's 救助（する） for the first 必要物／必要条件.

The 伝説の American designer created a 砕く-blue 二塁打-直面する cashmere dress and coat that seemed straight out of Camelot. Jackie Kennedy is, some （人命などを）奪う，主張する, the 前任者 that First Lady Melania most admires.