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Cafe Kitty at Underbelly sounds as Soho-sleazy as it comes. Albeit coincidentally. Because にもかかわらず its coquettish 指名する (with shades of Tinto 厚かましさ／高級将校連’s Salon Kitty), and a nod to the area’s murky past (‘London’s dark underbelly’ etc), the caf? is an offshoot of Kitty Fisher’s, in Mayfair (itself 指名するd after a famous courtesan), above a theatre run by, you’ve guessed it, Underbelly, that renowned ‘live entertainment’ outfit.
But it sits in one of those last pockets of old Soho, with the sex shops flogging ‘結婚の／夫婦の 援助（する）s’, and the handwritten ‘model upstairs’ cards stuck to grimy 塀で囲むs at the 底（に届く） of shabby staircases.
All watched over by the 軽く押す／注意を引く-軽く押す／注意を引く, wink-wink neon of the Raymond Revuebar 調印する. It’s just past 2.30 on a glum Tuesday afternoon and the restaurant is all but empty. No real surprises there, as this is essentially a night-time 発生地.
Still, the service is lovely, the banquettes comfortable and the food really rather good.
‘On a Tuesday at 2.30 it is all but empty,’ says Tom, ‘but the food is really good’
Devilled eggs, now ubiquitous on 軽食 menus across the country, have an oozing confit yolk and a good whack of cayenne, too. ‘Very’ welsh rarebit (so 指名するd, somewhat puzzlingly, for its 自由主義の use of Tabasco) uses sliced white bread, as is 権利 and proper, is generous on the cheese, 井戸／弁護士席 browned and 泡ing.
There are croquettes filled with ’nduja and roquefort, a strident, spicy mouthful. And boneless buffalo-chicken bits, expertly 深い-fried, with a buttery piquant sauce and a mellow, 冷静な／正味のing stilton dressing. ‘Wings for people who don’t want to get messy,’ says my friend Joe. He says I can have the line for 解放する／自由な. Joe is a most generous man.
Scallops, plump, fresh and cooked just under, sit beneath a crunchy, herby, 取調べ／厳しく尋問するd Rockefeller topping. I think it 作品 better here than it does on oysters but then I’ve never been a fan of hot 激しく揺するs.
A good club 挟む always fills me with joy, and にもかかわらず 欠如（する）ing any egg, this one’s a belter. Three 層s of thin white toast with roast chicken, melted cheese and, best of all, a few slices of Pete Hannan’s magnificent bacon.
You can also order his ’二塁打 B’ サーロイン steak, for me one of the best there is. That’s for next time. Instead, we gnaw a couple of herb-crusted lamb chops, perky and pink, order another 瓶／封じ込める of ワイン and gossip like fishwives, while Soho gets on with its 商売／仕事 below us.
About £30 per 長，率いる. Cafe Kitty, Underbelly Boulevard Soho, 6 Walker’s 法廷，裁判所, London W1; underbellyboulevard.com