Follow the lads on ¾®Î¹¹Ô¤¹¤ë: England¡Çs World Cup team will stay at this teetotal Qatar hotel - with rooms from ¡ò64. So what¡Çs it like inside?

  • Ed Grenby checks into Souq Al Wakra Hotel, selected by England ·Ð±Ä¼Ô¡¿»ÙÇÛ¿Í Gareth Southgate as his team's HQ
  • 'Gareth seems deliberately to have Áª¤Öd the most modest and borderline-boring accommodation,' he says?
  • ¡¼¤Ë´Ø¤·¤Æ¡¿¡¼¤ÎÅÀ¤Çs of »ÜÀßs, the alcohol-²òÊü¤¹¤ë¡¿¼«Í³¤Ê Áʤ¨¤ë¼êÃÊ¡¿¹Ô³ÚÃÏ has a?restaurant, coffee ˸¤²¤ë¡¿Ë¡ÄÊÛ¸î»Î¶È, 'tiny' gym and a spa?

ÀëÅÁ

The demurely dressed woman at check-in makes herself ¡Êµ¿¤¤¤ò¡ËÀ²¤é¤¹. ¡ÆThis is a ¡È´¥Á礷¤¿¡¤Æü¾È¤ê¤Î¡É hotel, so there¡Çs no alcohol at all.¡Ç Then she ¼êÅϤ¹s me a brochure and says: ¡ÆBut we do have a spa with all these ¼£ÎÅs.¡Ç

It¡Çs hard to see how a spa stands in for a ˸¤²¤ë¡¿Ë¡ÄÊÛ¸î»Î¶È ¡½ and harder still to picture Harry Kane and the lads returning from a ¾¡Íø¤òÆÀ¤¿ £´È¾´ü/4ʬ¤Î1-final hoping to ÄÀ¤à a few celebratory ÃÏ°Ì¡¤Ç¤Ì¿¤¹¤ë-match pints and ¸ºß given detox tea, followed by a ³«²ñ¡¿³«Äî¡¿²ñ´ü of ¡ÆRadiance Facial and Nail ¥Ý¡¼¥é¥ó¥É¤Î¡Ê¿Í¡Ë pampering¡Ç.

But that¡Çs Àµ³Î¤Ë¡¿¤Þ¤µ¤Ë what England ·Ð±Ä¼Ô¡¿»ÙÇÛ¿Í Gareth Southgate has in mind for his squad at next month¡Çs FIFA World Cup in Qatar. After five visits to the Souq Al Wakra Hotel Qatar by Tivoli ¡½ the first one way »Ù±ç¤¹¤ë in the summer of 2019 ¡½ he selected this as the team hotel.

Game on: Ed Grenby checks into the Souq Al Wakra Hotel Qatar by Tivoli (pictured), which has been chosen as England's World Cup base

Game on: Ed Grenby checks into the Souq Al Wakra Hotel Qatar by Tivoli (pictured), which has been chosen as England's World Cup base

The Souq Al Wakra Hotel Qatar was selected by England manager Gareth Southgate after five visits to the property, the first one way back in the summer of 2019. Pictured above is a Superior Sea View room

The Souq Al Wakra Hotel Qatar was selected by England ·Ð±Ä¼Ô¡¿»ÙÇÛ¿Í Gareth Southgate after five visits to the ½êͭʪ¡¿»ñ»º¡¿ºâ»º, the first one way »Ù±ç¤¹¤ë in the summer of 2019. Pictured above is a Superior Sea ¸«²ò¡Ê¤ò¤È¤ë¡Ë room

'As well as a comfortable bed and a discreetly marbled bathroom,' writes Ed, 'my Junior Suite (above) has a plush sitting room with a huge TV. But the only other "entertainment" option is the copy of the Koran I find in the bedside drawer, along with a prayer mat'

'ƱÍÍ¤Ë as a comfortable bed and a ¿µ½Å¤Ë marbled bathroom,' Îá¾õs Ed, 'my Junior ¹µÁÊ (above) has a plush sitting room with a ÊúÍʤ¹¤ë TV. But the only other "entertainment" ÁªÂò is the copy of the Koran I find in the É¿ͤÎËí¸µ drawer, along with a µ§¤ê mat'

The hotel has 101 rooms with 'comfortable' beds

The hotel has 101 rooms with 'comfortable' beds

Over a glass of mango juice, the hotel¡Çs sales director, Aiman Merenciano, tells me that although most big hotels in Qatar¡Çs »ñËÜ¡¿¼óÅÔ, Doha, sell alcohol, Southgate¡Çs shortlist ´Þ¤à¡¿Éõ¤¸¹þ¤á¤ëd just three Áʤ¨¤ë¼êÃÊ¡¿¹Ô³ÚÃÏs ¡½ all of them booze-²òÊü¤¹¤ë¡¿¼«Í³¤Ê. What¡Çs more, Gareth seems deliberately to have Áª¤Öd the most modest and borderline-boring accommodation he could find.

While the Dutch team is staying in the »ñËÜ¡¿¼óÅÔ¡Çs glitzy centre, at the ¡ò350-a-night St Regis Doha, where every room comes with a butler who will ¡Æarrive after your morning wake-up call to draw your shades¡Ç, England¡Çs hotel sells rooms from ¡ò64 and is in the sleepy ¹Ù³° of Al Wakrah.

It¡Çs laid out, as Arabic houses ÅÁÅýŪ¤Ë are, in a °ìÏ¢¤Î ÀŤ«¤Ê ÃæÄís, each with a shady tree or sssshhh-ing fountain at its centre. There are 101 rooms, so no need for any of the players to ³ô as they used to until the 1990s.

The biggest danger may be Âà¶þ. ƱÍÍ¤Ë as a comfortable bed and a ¿µ½Å¤Ë marbled bathroom, my Junior ¹µÁÊ has a plush sitting room with a ÊúÍʤ¹¤ë TV. But the only other ¡Æentertainment¡Ç ÁªÂò is the copy of the Koran I find in the É¿ͤÎËí¸µ drawer, along with a µ§¤ê mat.

The hotel has a restaurant, coffee ˸¤²¤ë¡¿Ë¡ÄÊÛ¸î»Î¶È, tiny gym and the aforementioned spa ¡½ and that¡Çs about it. The FA ÌÀ³Î¤Ë want players ¾ÇÅÀ¡Ê¤ò¹ç¤ï¤»¤ë¡Ëd on football, but they¡ Çll be bringing in their own ¡ÊÊÆ¡Ëê¾å¤²¤¹¤ë¡¿¡Ê±Ñ¡ËÄóµÄ¤¹¤ë football and ping-pong ¡ÊÊÆ¡Ëê¾å¤²¤¹¤ë¡¿¡Ê±Ñ¡ËÄóµÄ¤¹¤ës.

While the Dutch team is staying in Doha's glitzy centre, at the ¡ò350-a-night St Regis Doha, where every room comes with a butler, England?s hotel sells rooms from ¡ò64, reveals Ed

While the Dutch team is staying in Doha's glitzy centre, at the ¡ò350-a-night St Regis Doha, where every room comes with a butler, England¡Çs hotel sells rooms from ¡ò64, ÌÀ¤é¤«¤Ë¤¹¤ë¡¿Ï³¤é¤¹s Ed

The Souq Al Wakra Hotel Qatar is laid out, explains Ed, as Arabic houses traditionally are, in a series of quiet courtyards

The Souq Al Wakra Hotel Qatar is laid out, explains Ed, as Arabic houses ÅÁÅýŪ¤Ë are, in a °ìÏ¢¤Î ÀŤ«¤Ê ÃæÄís

Ed says that for the England team, their biggest problem at the Souq Al Wakra Hotel Qatar may be boredom

Ed says that for the England team, their biggest problem at the Souq Al Wakra Hotel Qatar may be Âà¶þ

Ed writes: 'Gareth seems deliberately to have picked 
the most modest and borderline-boring accommodation he could find'

Ed Îá¾õs: 'Gareth seems deliberately to have Áª¤Öd the most modest and borderline-boring accommodation he could find'

More than 150 security staff will guard the hotel and its 100-strong contingent of England footballers and officials during the tournament. Above is the modest gym

More than 150 °ÂÁ´ staff will guard the hotel and its 100-strong ¼¡Âè¤ÇÊѤï¤ë¡¿Çɸ¯ÉôÂâ of England footballers and ¸ø¼°¤Î¡¿Ìò¿Ís during the tournament. Above is the modest gym

And in the middle of the hotel, I watch men ϫƯ in the 35-degree h eat to ÊѤ¨¤ë a large fountain into a small swimming pool so that the boys can dust off the inflatable unicorns that were such a ¹¶·â¤¹¤ë¡¤¾×Æͤ¹¤ë at the 2018 World Cup.

What seems rough is that the FA ºÇ¹â¤Î¡¤¤ò±Û¤¹ ¸ü¤«¤Þ¤·¤µ¡¿¹âµé¾­¹»Ï¢¡Çs biggest ¾ùÊâ is to themselves: staying a few hundred metres away at the Souq Al Wakra Hotel¡Çs sister ½êͭʪ¡¿»ñ»º¡¿ºâ»º, where the no-alcohol »ÙÇÛ¤¹¤ë has been waived.

Aiman tells me that more than 150 °ÂÁ´ staff will guard the hotel and its 100-strong ¼¡Âè¤ÇÊѤï¤ë¡¿Çɸ¯ÉôÂâ of England footballers and ¸ø¼°¤Î¡¿Ìò¿Ís during the tournament ¡½ though it¡Çs not ¡Êµ¿¤¤¤ò¡ËÀ²¤é¤¹ if the ·ã¤·¤¤s are there to keep onlookers out or the players in ¡½ not least because Qatar is a country where it¡Çs Ê¿°×¤Ê for foreigners to get into trouble with ÊݼéŪ¤Ê ¥¤¥¹¥é¥à¶µÅÌ customs and strict ˡΧs.

If any of the À±¡¿¼çÌò¤Ë¤¹¤ës do escape, outside their Ê¿ÏÂŪ¤Ê Í×ºÉ they¡Çll find the souq: an ¸ÅÂå¤Î market that¡Çs a lovely, lose-yourself Íí¤Þ¤ë of ¾®Æ»¡¿¹ÒÏ©s, with the honey market beside the spice market jostling ¤È°ì½ï¤Ë the date market and the »Ä¤ê¡¿µÙ·Æ¡Ê¤¹¤ë¡Ë.

Above is the buffet area at the England team's hotel. The FA top brass, meanwhile, is staying at the Souq Al Wakra Hotel?s sister property nearby, where the no-alcohol rule has been waived

Above is the buffet area at the England team's hotel. The FA ºÇ¹â¤Î¡¤¤ò±Û¤¹ ¸ü¤«¤Þ¤·¤µ¡¿¹âµé¾­¹»Ï¢, °ìÊý¡¿¹ç´Ö, is staying at the Souq Al Wakra Hotel¡Çs sister ½êͭʪ¡¿»ñ»º¡¿ºâ»º nearby, where the no-alcohol »ÙÇÛ¤¹¤ë has been waived

Ed writes: 'The FA clearly want [the Englan
d] players focused on football, but they?ll be bringing in their own table football and ping-pong tables [to the hotel].'?Above is 'Jarnen' restaurant, which serves Mediterranean food

Ed Îá¾õs: 'The FA ÌÀ³Î¤Ë want [the England] players ¾ÇÅÀ¡Ê¤ò¹ç¤ï¤»¤ë¡Ëd on football, but they¡Çll be bringing in their own ¡ÊÊÆ¡Ëê¾å¤²¤¹¤ë¡¿¡Ê±Ñ¡ËÄóµÄ¤¹¤ë football and ping-pong ¡ÊÊÆ¡Ëê¾å¤²¤¹¤ë¡¿¡Ê±Ñ¡ËÄóµÄ¤¹¤ës [to the hotel].'?Above is 'Jarnen' restaurant, which serves Mediterranean food

The hotel?s sales director, Aiman Merenciano, tells Ed that although most big hotels in Qatar?s capital, Doha, sell alcohol, Southgate?s shortlist contained just three resorts - all of them booze-free. Above is the?Souq Al Wakra Hotel Qatar's spa

The hotel¡Çs sales director, Aiman Merenciano, tells Ed that although most big hotels in Qatar¡Çs »ñËÜ¡¿¼óÅÔ, Doha, sell alcohol, Southgate¡Çs shortlist ´Þ¤à¡¿Éõ¤¸¹þ¤á¤ëd just three Áʤ¨¤ë¼êÃÊ¡¿¹Ô³ÚÃÏs - all of them booze-²òÊü¤¹¤ë¡¿¼«Í³¤Ê. Above is the?Souq Al Wakra Hotel Qatar's spa

And relax: The hotel describes its spa as 'elegant, refined and timeless'

And relax: The hotel ½Ò¤Ù¤ës its spa as 'elegant, ÀºÀ½¤¹¤ëd and timeless'?

Should England triumph, the Souq Al Wakra Hotel Qatar by Tivoli might become a tourist attraction in its own right

Should England ¾¡Íø, the Souq Al Wakra Hotel Qatar by Tivoli might become a tourist attraction in its own ¸¢Íø

The hotel is located in Al Wakrah, a 'sleepy' suburb with a stretch of public beach (pictured)

The hotel is °ÌÃÖ¤ò¼¨¤¹d in Al Wakrah, a 'sleepy' ¹Ù³° with a stretch of public beach (pictured)

Harry Kane (abo
ve) will have to settle for booze-free celebrations at the hotel

Harry Kane (above) will have to settle for booze-²òÊü¤¹¤ë¡¿¼«Í³¤Ê ½Ë²ìs at the hotel?

At one end, cafes and restaurants serve classic Arabian dishes (but no alcohol); and in Á°Àþ of them a public beach where the sand, as soft as the drinks, slopes É餫¤¹¡¿·âÄƤ¹¤ë into the sighingly warm Arabian Sea.

Å굡¡¦ÅÒ¤±¤ëing ¤½¤Î¾å¤Î, Doha¡Çs biggest tourist attractions are the ¹ñ²È¤Î Museum (remarkable for its architecture) and exquisite Museum of Islamic Art, where the aesthetes of the team will no µ¿Ìä ¹â¤¯É¾²Á¤¹¤ë¡¿¡ÊÁê¾ì¤Ê¤É¤¬¡Ë¾å¤¬¤ë the intricate calligraphy and ornate Èô¹Ôµ¡¤Ç¹Ô¤¯-ÁÇÁᤤ¹ÔÆ° °·¤¦s.

Doha¡Çs other draw is Souq Waqif: it¡Çs bigger and livelier than Al Wakrah¡Çs, and Ãø̾¤Ê for its falcon market. These magnificent birds are prized in Qatari culture for their ÄÉÀסʤ¹¤ë¡Ëing abilities. You may even see them in ³èÆ°¡¿ÀïÆ® at one of Qatar¡Çs º½Çù ¡Ê·³¤Î¡ËÌî±ÄÃÏ¡¤¿Ø±Äs, where Ãϸµ¤Îs and tourists gather for camel rides, sand-Åë¾è, dune-bashing in 4x4s and camera-È¿¹³¤¹¤ëing sunsets.

The England WAGs have a team hotel, too. They¡Çre staying at the ¡ò350 a night Çò¿Í»ØƳ¼Ô¤Ù¤Ã¤¿¤ê¤ÎÅìÍÎ¿Í Island ¡½ a glamorous Áʤ¨¤ë¼êÃÊ¡¿¹Ô³ÚÃÏ, on its own islet off Doha¡Çs coast, »Ï¤á¤ë¡¤·è¤á¤ë out Maldives-style with ¹µÁÊs on stilts over the water. It¡Çs only reachable by boat and it, too, is ´¥Á礷¤¿¡¤Æü¾È¤ê¤Î.

»Ù±ç¤¹¤ë at the players¡Ç billet, general ·Ð±Ä¼Ô¡¿»ÙÇÛ¿Í Emad Nabulsi is excited about hosting the England squad. He knows that should England ¾¡Íø, his hotel might become a tourist attractio n in its own ¸¢Íø.

TRAVEL FACTS

Souq Al Wakra Hotel Qatar by Tivoli has ¡Ê¥Æ¥Ë¥¹¤Ê¤É¤Î¡Ë¥À¥Ö¥ë¥¹ from ¡ò64 room only (tivolihotels.com/en/souq-al-wakra-tivoli). For more on Qatar, see visitqatar.com. Qatar ¹Ò¶õÏ©s Èô¹Ôµ¡¤Ç¹Ô¤¯s to Doha from ¡ò748 (qatarairways.com).

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