Love is in the 空気／公表するs

Sunday afternoon, basking in the November 日光 at a cafe beside the Plaza Dorrego flea market in Buenos 空気／公表するs. Our （米）棚上げする／（英）提議する was still littered with the remains of somebody else's lunch and, as we waited to order, a passing urchin, a girl maybe 12 years old, 需要・要求するd: 'Finished with that?' We nodded. She snatched the fragments of meat and tomato like a little sparrow, crammed them into her mouth and hurried onward.

The proximity of poverty to wealth is typically South American. The centre of Buenos 空気／公表するs, or BA, as everyone calls it, could pass for Milan, Madrid, even Paris, with its spacious avenues, grand 19th century buildings and endless restaurants, 妨げる／法廷，弁護士業s and cafes. This is one of the world's most elegant cities. Yet the 郊外s house some of its poorest people, who occasionally slip through the invisible curtain 保護物，者ing the 井戸／弁護士席-fed inhabitants from the struggling 集まりs beyond.

As I strolled through a park with my son Harry, who lives in BA, he pointed thoughtfully southward: 'A few 封鎖するs over from here, suddenly the city doesn't look so nice,' he said. 'And few 封鎖するs beyond that, you could be in trouble!'

Better for a 訪問者, maybe, not to think too much about that, and few do. Partly because everything here costs about a third of its British 同等（の）, BA is today becoming one of the most popular tourist 目的地s in the southern 半球. Most people spend two or three days in the city, before taking off to visit one of hundreds of holiday ranches - estancias - to ride, walk or fish.

Harry, like a lot of young British 訪問者s, fell in love with the place after leaving university, and has now started working in the travel 商売／仕事 here. He guided me with the enthusiasm of a true 信奉者. Forget memories of the Falklands War - in Argentina the British are liked and 尊敬（する）・点d.

We built most of the country's 鉄道s and 産業s in the 19th century, and ma ny British stayed. Today, some fifth 世代 Anglo-Argentines still talk about visiting London as 'going 支援する'. Tea at 5pm is a 流行の／上流の habit.

Many BA shops give themselves English 指名するs: a polo outfitter calls itself 'King's Game'; a dress shop is 指名するd 'System Basic'; there is 'The 二塁打 U', '内部の Architecture', even a shop in the Defensa antique 地区 充てるd to old Dinky, Corgi and Matchbox Toys.

Best buys for tourists are leather and silver. On my last trip, I got a 最高の，を越す-質 briefcase for いっそう少なく than half what I would 推定する／予想する to 支払う／賃金 in London, and this time a wallet.

The young love the cheap jewellery and 着せる／賦与するs. There are also cigars. I spent a happy half-hour in La Casa del Habano on Thames Street in the Palermo 地区, 熟考する／考慮するing every known brand of Cuban cigar, at least 30 per cent below British prices.

If theatre is your thing, BA 誇るs more than 20 - Corrientes Street is the city's Broadway. There is an オペラ house and a host of art galleries. Since Argentina is a polo mecca, a lot of 訪問者s visit the smart clubs and watch the most self-consciously sleek and handsome young men in the world knocking hell out of a ball - and the hearts of their 女性（の） fans.

But for me, most of the fun of BA is about eating. We started the 過程 at a restaurant in Palermo, the city's Notting Hill. El Trapiche was almost empty at 9pm. 'You see - I 警告するd you,' said Harry reproachfully. 'That's the trouble about dining out with somebody who wants to go to bed at 10.30pm. Nobody here eats before that.'

This is famously a night city. The restaurant started to fill up when our dinner （機の）カム, maybe two 続けざまに猛撃するs 負わせる apiece of the most delicious fillet I have ever tasted. In a country where steaks, or at least the bovine 構成要素 for them, roam the pampas in millions, nobody wastes time on 半導体素子s. Rare-cooked meat and salad is a 中心的要素 diet, and incredibly good it is. Our dinner at El Trapiche cost £15, 含むing a 瓶／封じ込める of the sp lendid 地元の ワイン. At a smart nouvelle cuisine place called Thymus, we ate six courses embracing almost every known herb and spice. At the Brasserie Petanque in San Telmo, we had snails and mussels. Its owner, a thirty-something スイスの 指名するd Pascal, said proudly: 'Where else in the world could one open a restaurant and make enough money in 18 months to be able to buy another place for cash?'

We lunched at Sirop Folie, in a 静かな, shady 中庭 off Vincente Lopez Street. I ate gravadlax salad and gnocchi, Harry devoured yet another steak, and we paid a 法案 for £24.

Next day, we tried Croque Madame, the enchanting garden cafe of the Museum of Decorative Arts, where Harry 熟視する／熟考するd four girls at the next （米）棚上げする／（英）提議する. He thinks BA women are the prettiest in the world. 'And you 港／避難所't seen the best,' he said, 'because you go to bed so 早期に. They only really come out at night.'

We took an 遠出 across the 広大な River Plate estuary to the Uruguayan 国境 town of Colonia, a sleepy, pleasantly melancholy little place with waterside cafes and cobbled streets.

Harry has spent several weeks in Uruguay, and adores it: 'They're 本気で lovely people.' I was doubtful that the day trip 完全に 正当化するd half-an-hour's 列ing for 移民／移住 and 安全 at each end, but my son was not bothered, and nor are most tourists.

Harry's 世代 warms to South America, he says, partly because they find it いっそう少なく ordered and constricted than modern Britain. They revel in the 'quilombo', the 混乱 and extravagance which …に出席するs all things Latin. The travel writer Peter Fleming wrote more than 70 years ago: 'My first impression of South America was that it is a continent with imperfect self-支配（する）／統制する'.

Not much has changed today. Argentina loves to 心にいだく its fantasies, one of which is that Eva Peron was a Good Thing as its de facto 支配者 during her husband's first 大統領／総裁などの地位 in the 1940s. Argentines are also keen on Che Guevara, 'though', as a 地元の said to me, 'that's really because they know nothing about him.'

Another icon, と一緒に Maradona the footballer, is a longdead tango superstar 指名するd Carlos Gardel. Buenos 空気／公表するs is still mad about tango. A string of restaurants 申し込む／申し出s shows, and tourists can 調印する up for lessons. One morning before the heat became oppressive, we played ゴルフ on a 地元の city course. I am no golfer, but enjoyed myself の中で the exotic trees of Palermo's bumpy little course.

The fairways are very 不公平な indeed. I 攻撃する，衝突する one ball which bounced on its way to a 隣人ing rough, ricocheted through 90 degrees, and ended up on the green I was 目的（とする）ing for.

Our 一連の会議、交渉／完成する cost いっそう少なく than £30 含むing 雇う of clubs and a lot of balls. Harry arranges 遠出s for serious golfers at the smart 郊外の 私的な courses, but he said that any of these would have thrown us out after watching my first 運動. Later, Harry sent me on a city 小旅行する with Cecilia, one of those delightful, cosmopolitan, bilingual middleaged Argentines with whom BA abounds. A five-hour trip for four people in a Mercedes, guided by her, costs about £40 a 長，率いる 含むing a 最高の，を越す-率 lunch. I would recommend Cecilia to anyone.

Her family has been 減刑する／通勤するing between Europe and South America for a century or two, and she knows everything 価値（がある） knowing about her country. Argentines are proud of their mongrel 遺産, the 製品 of 世代s of 変化させるd 移民，移住（する）s since the country was first colonised by Spain in the late 16th century. In 1914, Spanish was a いっそう少なく ありふれた language in Argentina than Italian, German and English. A 地元の joke has it that modern Argentines are Italians who speak Spanish and want to be English. But it's 平易な to see why young British travellers flock to Buenos 空気／公表するs.

It 申し込む／申し出s the sophistication of Europe without the 強調する／ストレス or cost; 同情的な people; 広大な／多数の／重要な 天候 except in December and January when it is impossibly hot. Sure, it is a long way to go - the British 航空路s flight from London 経由で San Paolo takes 15 hours - but 価値（がある） the ride. Harry thinks he has discovered heaven, and I can see why.

Harry Hastings's 見解／翻訳／版 of Buenos 空気／公表するs can be seen on planba.com, or telephone 005 411 4776 8267.

Four other Argentina holidays

Argentina's ワイン 中心地域 sits around the city of Mendoza, in the west, 近づく Chile. 旅行 Latin America (020 8747 8315; www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk) does tailor-made 小旅行するs of the area, and 示唆するs a 13-day 旅程. The 小旅行する also visits Chile and BA, and costs from £1,551pp, inc flights.

The north has much to 申し込む／申し出, not least Salta (renowned for its Spanish 植民地の architecture) and the Iguazu 落ちるs on the 国境 with Brazil. Trips 世界的な (0117 311 4403; www.tripsworldwide.com) 申し込む／申し出s a 13-night 'Northern Adventure' from £2,045pp, inc flights, 移転s and breakfast.

To do Argentina in depth, you could try Latin 長期冒険旅行 (020 7610 6020; www.latinodyssey.com). The specialist 示唆するs an 18-day 小旅行する that takes in BA and Iguazu, but also covers the south in 詳細（に述べる） - the Welsh 解決／入植地 of Trelew, the 半島 Valdes, Punta Tombo Penguin 植民地, Ushuaia , Lapataia 国家の Park and the end of the world at Cape Horn (in Chile). From £3,585pp (two 株ing), not inc international flights.

To do the tip of South America 適切に, let a boat do the work. Celebrity 巡航するs (0800 018 2525; www.celebritycruises.com) does a 14-night voyage between BA and the elegant port of Valparaiso in Chile. Covers Argentinian 飛び領土s of Ushuaia and city of Puerto Madryn, 同様に as Uruguayan 資本／首都 Montevideo, Chilean cities of Punta 円形競技場s and Puerto Montt, glacierlaced Chilean Fjords, Cape Horn and Falklands. In Feb from £739pp inside cabin, up to £3,829pp for 控訴. Not inc international flights (from £790 with BA).

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