'Both 味方するs of the binary:' 展示(する) 調査するs gender, fashion

BOSTON (AP) - When actor Billy Porter 明かすd his combination tuxedo-ball gown at the Oscars last month, it got people talking.

Porter, the 黒人/ボイコット and gay breakout 星/主役にする of the FX series "提起する/ポーズをとる," had bucked 伝統的な 学院 Award attire - fancy frocks for the ladies and basic tuxedos for men.

A photo of Porter's 注目する,もくろむ-catching Oscar garb is 含むd in a new 展示(する) at Boston's Museum of 罰金 Arts that opens to the public on Thursday. The 展示(する) 肩書を与えるd, "Gender Bending Fashion," 診察するs moments in history when 着せる/賦与するing transcended and muddled our understanding of gender.

The show was 奮起させるd, in part, by what's happening 権利 now in fashion, said Michelle Finamore, a fashion historian and curator.

"The lines are getting more and more blurred," she said.

"Gender Bending Fashion" is the first large-規模 展示(する) of its 肉親,親類d to be hosted by a major museum. It is 構成するd of mixed-マスコミ: 絵s, 記録,記録的な/記録する covers and photographs. But a 最高潮の場面 for テレビ視聴者s will surely be the 70 gender-bending ensembles from big-指名する designers, such as Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Gar?ons, and Walter 先頭 Beirendonck, a member of the 影響力のある avant-garde group "Antwerp Six."

In this Thursday, March 14, 2019, photo, three mannequins are displayed with clothing that combines traditional designs for men with those for women for the "Gender Bending Fashion" exhibition at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. The new exhibit at the museum explores how blurring gender lines are redefining the fashion industry. The show opens to the public on Thursday, March 21, and examines moments in history when clothing transcended and muddled our
 understanding of gender. (AP Photo/Charles Krupa)

In this Thursday, March 14, 2019, photo, three mannequins are 陳列する,発揮するd with 着せる/賦与するing that 連合させるs 伝統的な designs for men with those for women for the "Gender Bending Fashion" 展示 at the Museum of 罰金 Arts in Boston. The new 展示(する) at the museum 調査するs how blurring gender lines are redefining the fashion 産業. The show opens to the public on Thursday, March 21, and 診察するs moments in history when 着せる/賦与するing transcended and muddled our understanding of gender. (AP Photo/Charles Krupa)

One 著名な 傾向 is the tuxedo that actress Marlene Dietrich wore in the 1930 film "Morocco."

Dietrich has long been あられ/賞賛するd as a hero for gender fluidity. It wasn't uncommon for her to wear 最高の,を越す hats, shirts with French cuffs and cuff links, and pant 控訴s tailored for men.

"She was both 味方するs of the binary in that she was either 極端に feminine or 極端に masculine," Finamore said.

The 展示(する) 言及/関連s the 1920s, a time when women first 削減(する) their hair short. Then it 進歩s to the 1960s and The Peacock 革命, when menswear 転換d from plain and simple to flamboyant, colorful and tailored to the 団体/死体. The '60 s is also when unisex attire became mainstream. And 現在の day is thought to be the 高さ of gender fluidity in fashion.

Each of these moments 代表する a cultural 転換 within society, said Jo Paloetti, author of the 調書をとる/予約するs "Sex and Unisex: Fashion, Feminism, and the 性の 革命" and "Pink and Blue: Telling the Boys from the Girls in America."

In the 1920s, women 安全な・保証するd the 権利 to 投票(する) and started working outside the home for the first time. The 1960s brought the 性の 革命, gay 権利s and second-wave feminism - people 押し進めるing 支援する against 伝統的な 役割s.

Today, as the world questions the very relevance of gender 鮮明度/定義s, cultural questions are taking visual form in fashion, Paloetti said.

"We are asking what it means to be man or woman," she said. "Are these 条件 just a proxy for stereotypes?"

The show is on 陳列する,発揮する through Aug. 25.

In this Thursday, March 14, 2019, photo, a worker enters the "Gender Bending Fashion" exhibit, being prepared at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, Thursday, March 14, 2019. The show opens to the public on Thursday, March 21, and runs through Aug. 25. It examines moments in history when clothing transcended and muddled our understanding of gender. (AP Photo/Charles Krupa)

In this Thursday, March 14, 2019, photo, a 労働者 enters the "Gender Bending Fashion" 展示(する), 存在 用意が出来ている at the Museum of 罰金 Arts in Boston, Thursday, March 14, 2019. The show opens to the public on Thursday, March 21, and runs through Aug. 25. It 診察するs moments in history when 着せる/賦与するing transcended and muddled our understanding of gender. (AP Photo/Charles Krupa)

In this Thursday, March 14, 2019, photo, a suit worn by David Bowie, left, is displayed next to an ensemble worn by Jimi Hendrix for the "Gender Bending Fashion" exhibition at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. The new exhibit at the museum explores how blurring gender lines are redefining the fashion industry. The show opens to the public on Thursday, March 21, and examines moments in history when clothing transcended and muddled our understanding of gender. (AP Photo/Charles Krupa)

In this Thursday, March 14, 2019, photo, a 控訴 worn by David Bowie, left, is 陳列する,発揮するd next to an ensemble worn by Jimi Hendrix for the "Gender Bending Fashion" 展示 at the Museum of 罰金 Arts in Boston. The new 展示(する) at the museum 調査するs how blurring gender lines are redefining the fashion 産業. The show opens to the public on Thursday, March 21, and 診察するs moments in history when 着せる/賦与するing transcended and muddled our understanding of gender. (AP Photo/Charles Krupa)

In this Thursday, March 14, 2019, photo, men's suit designed with flowers and birds is displayed for the "Gender Bending Fashion" exhibition at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. The new exhibit at the museum explores how blurring gender lines are redefining the fashion industry. The show opens to the public on Thursday, March 21, and examines moments in history when clothing transcended and muddled our understanding of gender. (AP Photo/Charles Krupa)

In this Thursday, March 14, 2019, photo, men's 控訴 designed with flowers and birds is 陳列する,発揮するd for the "Gender Bending Fashion" 展示 at the Museum of 罰金 Arts in Boston. The new 展示(する) at the museum 調査するs how blurring gender lines are redefining the fashion 産業. The show opens to the public on Thursday, March 21, and 診察するs moments in history when 着せる/賦与するing transcended and muddled our understanding of gender. (AP Photo/Charles Krupa)

In this Thursday, March 14, 2019, photo, a skirt for men is displayed on a mannequin for the "Gender Bending Fashion" exhibit at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. "Gender Bending Fashion" is the first large-scale exhibit of its kind to be hosted by a major museum. It is comprised of mixed-media: paintings, record covers and photographs. But a highlight for viewers will surely be the 70 gender-bending ensembles from big-name designers. (AP Photo/Charles Krupa)

In this Thursday, March 14, 2019, photo, a skirt for men is 陳列する,発揮するd on a mannequin for the "Gender Bending Fashion" 展示(する) at the Museum of 罰金 Arts in Boston. "Gender Bending Fashion" is the first large-規模 展示(する) of its 肉親,親類d to be hosted by a major museum. It is 構成するd of mixed-マスコミ: 絵s, 記録,記録的な/記録する covers and photographs. But a 最高潮の場面 for テレビ視聴者s will surely be the 70 gender-bending ensembles from big-指名する designers. (AP Photo/Charles Krupa)

In this Thursday, March 14, 2019, photo, workers install a mannequin, which combines traditional designs for men with those for women, for the "Gender Bending Fashion" exhibition at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. The show was inspired, in part, by what's happening right now in fashion, said Michelle Finamore, a fashion historian and curator. (AP Photo/Charles Krupa)

In this Thursday, 損なう ch 14, 2019, photo, 労働者s 任命する/導入する a mannequin, which 連合させるs 伝統的な designs for men with those for women, for the "Gender Bending Fashion" 展示 at the Museum of 罰金 Arts in Boston. The show was 奮起させるd, in part, by what's happening 権利 now in fashion, said Michelle Finamore, a fashion historian and curator. (AP Photo/Charles Krupa)

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