From islands to highlands: Snorkelling, spas and tea (for two?) in marvellous Malaysia

By Carolyn O'Donnell
Updated: 10:38 BST, 20 February 2012

If I can just keep breathing, I won’t die. Maybe this is a little melodramatic? I’m only snorkelling on a tiny island off the east coast of peninsular Malaysia ? but that mask is making me panicky because I have a sort of ph obia about putting my 直面する in the water and choking into a tube...

This is where Hafiez wades in. Smiling 概して, he points at a boy splashing about who can’t even swim. 'He could do nothing before, now he is enjoying it. Come,' he says. 'There is much to see.'

I was about to give up and sit on the sand, but Hafiez 教えるs me, 根気よく waiting while I huff and flap and 抗議する my 無資格／無能力. Then taking my water-wrinkled 手渡す in his, off we go.

Learning the ropes: Hafiez taught Carolyn how to relax and enjoy her experience snorkelling

There is a lot to see. As he steers me to 珊瑚 形式s, 巨大（な） clams and iridescent fish, I can 焦点（を合わせる） on two 職業s - 観察するing and respiring. We search for 海がめs as Hafiez fetches a fat 黒人／ボイコット sausage that turns out to be a sea cucumber.? ?

Tenggol Island is considered to be one of Malaysia’s best-kept 飛び込み secrets. From March to October the 深い waters and 珊瑚 暗礁s of Terengganu 海洋 Park come to life and 鯨 sharks and schools of barracuda can be seen, but even out of season I start to feel like Jacques Cousteau.

Only 3km long and 2km wide, Tenggol is off the coast of Terengganu, a 明言する／公表する 公式文書，認めるd for its ジャングルs, waterfalls and 225km of coastline, which sees より小数の tourists than the western 味方する of the country.

There is little to distract 強調する／ストレスd urbanites from relaxing, 特に at the Tanjong Jara 訴える手段／行楽地 where Malay traditions 会合，会う elegant hedonism in 17 lush green acres 前線ing the South 中国 Sea.

Best-kept secret: Tenggol Island is one of Malaysia's excellent 飛び込み 場所s, 始める，決める in the dazzling Terengganu 海洋 Park

Designed to distil the essence of a 17th-century Malay palace, it’s tempting to do nothing and just admire its beauty, but there is bird or firefly watching, trekking and cycling to fit in. Guests can learn more about Malay culture by visiting a 'kampong' (village) or Malay cuisine with Chef Ann, 'the Menu Master'.

Chef Ann 統括するs over Di Atas Sungai, which means 'above the river' in Malay, and this restaurant 現実に sits above a small 水路 flowing into the waves. With dishes 定価つきの by 成分s and no menu, Chef Ann gently 取調べ／厳しく尋問するs guests as to the nature of their palates’ 願望（する）s.

地雷 were 満たすd with a tasting menu featuring spiced fish, rich buttermilk prawns and sticky roselle chicken.

The roselle, a 種類 of hibiscus, was introduced to Malaysia from India 300 years ago and is prized for its 傷をいやす／和解させるing 所有物／資産／財産s. We finished off with a chocolate fondant - with its rich, smooth centre, it was certainly a tonic for me.

Hideaway: The relaxing Tanjong Jara 訴える手段／行楽地 keeps Malay traditions alive in style, a 石／投石する's throw from the South 中国 Sea

The 訴える手段／行楽地’s philosophy is 表明するd 経由で 'sucimurni', a Malay 概念 of wholesome living 強調ing 潔白 of spirit, health and wellbeing. This encompasses 広大な／多数の／重要な food, 評価 of nature and rejuvenation of the self and 自然に, the best place for rejuvenation is the spa.

焦点（を合わせる）ing uniquely on Malay 傷をいやす／和解させるing arts, a Spa Village Tanjong Jara 治療 begins with a 'mandi bunga' 儀式, which used to be part of the 載冠（式）／即位（式） of a new 暴君. Wearing a sarong, I sat outside on a warm 石／投石する while seven 肉親，親類d of water and flowers were 注ぐd over my 長，率いる …を伴ってd by seven blessings of 繁栄, longevity and other good things.

The spa has received many accolades, and the 訴える手段／行楽地 itself received an Aga 旅宿泊所 Award for Architecture, recognising its adaptation of 伝統的な structures to 会合，会う 同時代の 需要・要求するs.

Asam Roselle is the spa’s 署名 治療 using an oil blend featuring ginger, nutme g and collagen-building roselle. After a massage, I was scrubbed, wrapped and left to marinate 平和的に in rice, coconut oil and more roselle.

While some travellers can’t get enough 熱帯の 天候, British expats in the 植民地の 時代 used to 退却／保養地 from the lowland heat to the Cameron Highlands.

Lush: In 植民地の times, British expats would 退却／保養地 from the heat to the coolness of the Cameron Highlands

In contrast to the 残り／休憩（する） of 本土／大陸 Malaysia, the Highlands are 1,467 metres above sea level with a distinctly cooler 気候. 'Discovered' by British surveyor William Cameron in 1885, this part of the Titiwangsa 範囲 is perfect for growing tea, vegetables and an exotic fruit that attracts excited Malaysians on 週末s ? the strawberry.

The 'Thai Silk King' Jim Thompson - an American millionaire crediting with 生き返らせるing the 産業 - used to たびたび（訪れる） the area which is now the Cameron Highlands 訴える手段／行楽地.

Its tea room is 指名するd for the entrepreneur who enjoyed scones there and mysteriously disappeared? in 1967. Thompson’s Thai-style teak mansion in Bangkok is a museum, and in the Highlands you can see Moonlight Cottage, where he was staying when he disappeared.

One of the 訴える手段／行楽地’s many organised walks is the 'Jim Thom pson Mystery 追跡する'. We were …を伴ってd into the rainforest by former orchid hunter Madi (there's 635 地元の 種類) who has some 利益／興味ing 発見s to 株 about 地元の flora and the former 秘かに調査する’s 見えなくなる.

Perfect place for a cuppa: The area has been long associated with tea 農園s

Beginning its life as a village house in 1923, the 訴える手段／行楽地 has a 植民地の feel with a 支持を得ようと努めるd-panelled library. There is a ritual lighting of the スピードを出す／記録につける 解雇する／砲火／射撃 each evening and though honeymooners get first preference, closet pyromaniacs can have a go too.

The former staff ４半期/4分の1s were 変えるd into a spa, where I spent a splendid afternoon with the sweetly attentive Murni. 治療s 反映する 地元の produce ? strawberries, 造幣局, roses ? but I fancied the 'ジャングル secrets of anti-ageing' によれば the indigenous Semai people.

This 最高の-spa マラソン 含むd two herbal baths, a 団体／死体 scrub, massage and a regimen that let's just say Samantha from Sex and the City would certainly have savoured.

For tea I had to see the 農園 of popular Malaysian brand Boh, which means 'precious' in Cantonese. Boh 訪問者s can '株 the Ummph!' with a visit to the factory that smells like a large （水以外の）飲料, and then admire the velvety hills from the strategically placed caf? overlooking the 広い地所.

Malaysia is famous for its 歓待, and as I think 支援する on these two very different parts of the country, what 部隊s them is the friendliness of the people.

‘Sleepy snorkellers should 会合，会う me,’ said Hafiez, and while I didn’t think drowsiness was my main problem in the sea, he certainly helped awaken me to the joys of a new world and even 打ち勝つing an old 恐れる.

Travel Facts

The Tanjong Jara 訴える手段／行楽地 costs from £220 a night (www.tanjongjararesort.com) and can be reached by 飛行機で行くing to Kuala Terengganu from Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok or Singapore. The 訴える手段／行楽地 is around a 75-minute 運動 from 暴君 Mahmood Airport. Skyscanner (www.skyscanner.逮捕する) 現在／一般に has flights from London to Kuala Terengganu for £606. ???

The Cameron Highlands 訴える手段／行楽地 costs from £160 a night (www.cameronhighlandsresort.com) and is 位置を示すd 200km north of Kuala Lumpur, a four to five-hour 運動. Southall Travel (www.southalltravel.co.uk) is 申し込む／申し出ing flights to Kuala Lumpur from £554 per person.